How to choose a men's leather jacket

The choice of leather is the first thing that determines a jacket's quality. Between nappa lambskin, suede lambskin, deerskin and suede calfskin, each material has its own character: a suppleness, a feel, a way of ageing that nothing else reproduces exactly.

Two jackets in the same colour, at the same apparent price, can be made from leathers that have nothing in common. One will take a patina over ten years, the other will start to crack after two seasons. The difference lies in the nature of the hide, not in its colour or in the catalogue photo.

The immediate suppleness of nappa lambskin and the structured hold of suede calfskin do not make one better than the other. They are two different characters for two different wearers. The right question is not “which leather is best” but “which leather suits me”.

Full-grain leather retains its natural, intact surface, with its pores and slight variations—this is what allows it to develop a patina over years. Corrected-grain leather has been sanded and artificially coated: it appears more uniform at purchase, but will not age well.

When a hide is tanned, its outer surface — the "grain" — retains the pores, irregularities, and natural texture of the animal. Full-grain leather preserves this surface intact, without sanding or artificial coating. This is precisely what allows it, over time, to develop a unique patina, specific to each wearer.

When a hide has too many irregularities, or when seeking to reduce costs, industrial tanning involves sanding the surface then applying a pigmented coating for a uniform appearance. The result looks clean upon purchase — but this leather is rigid: it won't develop a patina, won't show marks, and will often end up cracking or flaking after a few years.

How do you recognise full-grain leather without a label? It shows slight variations in the grain, natural differences in shade, and a feel that is both firm and alive. Leather that is too perfectly uniform, too smooth on the surface, is almost always corrected.

Every leather jacket cut has its own logic: a silhouette it creates, a use it favours, a personality it expresses. The choice is not only aesthetic. It is also a question of how you will wear it and of your build.

In any case, a leather jacket worn with conviction will always be more fitting than one chosen by default. The right fit is the one you can just throw on without a second thought.

The absolute reference point is the shoulder seam, which should fall exactly at the end of the shoulder. If this point is right, the rest can be adjusted. If this point is wrong, no alteration will fix the fit.

The seam joining the body of the jacket to the sleeve should fall exactly at the end of your shoulder. Unlike denim, leather does not stretch across the shoulder: a jacket whose shoulder seams sit too low will never fit properly. This is the first thing to check when you try it on. If it overhangs by even a centimetre, change size.

Once the shoulders are right, check how freely you can move in the body. A well-fitting jacket lets you raise your arms without the garment pulling, cross your arms naturally and sit down without restriction. A little ease is normal: the leather will soften slightly with wear.

The ideal length depends on the cut: the bomber covers the belt by a centimetre or two, the biker sits slightly shorter to free the hips, the café racer can come down to mid-seat. The rule: not too short when seated, not too long when standing.

Two jackets at the same apparent price can be made to very different standards. It is not immediately visible. It shows over time, in the seams, the closures, the lining and the way the panels were marked out on the hide.

The thing we do systematically in the showroom: turn the jacket inside out. The inside says everything. Is the lining sewn or glued, are the seams even, are the edges clean? What is hidden inside tells you how exacting the person who made it was.

Fine leather is a limited resource. Its zones — flanks, back, shoulders — do not have the same density or the same stretch. In a careful workshop, the panels are placed to respect the grain and to make the best use of the finest zones. In fast production, that step is skipped.

A well-made leather jacket rarely has fewer than thirty individually cut panels. The seams must be even, taut without puckering. The edge finishes, where two panels meet, must be clean and free of excess thickness.

High-end makers use RiRi (Switzerland) or YKK Excella (Japan) zips exclusively, the two references in luxury. A zip that catches, or that feels flimsy next to the leather, points to a standard of manufacturing below the advertised price.

The price of a leather jacket can range from €200 to over €5,000. This range reflects very different realities. Understanding what makes up each price bracket is more useful than looking for an absolute "good value for money".

The real question is not to compare raw figures but to understand the cost structure behind each jacket. A workshop selling direct, with no intermediaries, can offer the same quality as a luxury house at a fraction of the price.

Most bad leather jacket purchases come down to five recurring mistakes, all avoidable with a little prior research.

A quality leather jacket doesn't require complicated maintenance. It just needs the right care: the right actions at the right time. Well-maintained leather will last two to three times longer than neglected leather.

The fundamental rules: nourish the leather with a silicone-free cream once or twice a year, waterproof it at the beginning of the season, hang it on a wide hanger, and let it dry naturally after rain.

Never do the following: machine wash or dry clean, expose to direct sun or heat, fold the jacket for storage, or apply alcohol- or silicone-based products.

A number of things cannot be settled online. The weight of the leather once it is on, the way a cut moves with the body, the exact shade of a colour in daylight: all of that needs direct contact.

It is truer still when comparing several materials. The difference between nappa lambskin and deerskin is understood in seconds by hand, and far less easily from photographs.

At Atelier Bertrand, the showroom in Passage Verdeau, Paris 9e, lets you try the whole collection, compare the leathers in person and, if you wish, start a made-to-measure order with your measurements taken on site.