For an everyday jacket, I recommend plongé lambskin to those looking for a refined look, a silky touch and lightness. I suggest deerskin to those who want more character, a visible grain and a thickness you can feel in the hand. In our selection, both remain very supple: the difference lies mainly in the look and the feel.
Plongé lambskin for a refined, lightweight look
In the showroom, I often describe our plongé lambskin as butter. Its suppleness and very silky touch give that impression straight away. Its surface is smooth, with an imperceptible grain and a slight satin sheen.
We work with thicknesses of around 0.7 to 0.8 mm. The aim is a garment you wear like a second skin, with ease of movement and great lightness on the shoulders.
This is the leather I steer people towards when they want a refined jacket with a discreet texture, one that is pleasant to keep on all day. The choice of collar and cut can then give the design a dressier or more relaxed expression.
Here, our stand-up collar leather jacket in mocha brown plongé lambskin
Deerskin for grain and character
The deerskin we select is naturally grained, matt and slightly oily to the touch. Its grain gives the garment a visible texture. I recommend it to those who want to add character to their jacket and like to feel more substance in the hand.
Its thickness is around 0.8 to 1 mm in our selection. It is therefore slightly thicker than our plongé lambskin, while remaining very supple. This combination of substance in the hand, strength and suppleness is one of the reasons we work with it.
If you are torn between the two, ask yourself this: do you prefer a smooth, silky surface, or a leather whose grain becomes part of the jacket's design?
Here, a Trucker Jacket made in navy deerskin.
The differences in our selection
| Criterion | Plongé lambskin | Deerskin |
|---|---|---|
| Look | Smooth with a slight satin sheen | Naturally grained and matt |
| Feel | Very silky and buttery | Slightly oily |
| Thickness | Around 0.7 to 0.8 mm | Around 0.8 to 1 mm |
| I recommend it for | A refined, lightweight look | Character and substance in the hand |
A fine leather can be a leather of great quality
Some clients are used to thicker, heavier leathers. The lightness of lambskin can then give them an impression of fragility. The quality and durability of a leather, however, are judged on several criteria together: the hide chosen, its tanning, its finish and how the garment is used. Thickness is one among others.
At Atelier Bertrand, we favour comfort and drape for everyday wear. We guide you according to the feel you are looking for and the way you want to wear your jacket.
To see where these two leathers sit within our range, discover our four leather families. To compare cuts and manufacturing criteria as well, see our guide to choosing a leather jacket.
Where our hides come from
We buy dormant stock and surplus leather from several luxury houses. For other hides, we buy directly from tawers owned by these houses. The plongé lambskin in our in-stock jackets comes from Bodin-Joyeux, a French tawery based in Levroux and awarded the Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant (Living Heritage Company) label, as well as from other French and Spanish tanneries.
The seasons when I recommend wearing them
I mainly recommend these jackets when the weather lets you enjoy a light garment: in spring, in autumn and on mild days. Temperature, wind, the lining and what you wear underneath all affect your comfort.
In very cold weather, particularly in late December or January in the Parisian climate, I recommend a warmer garment. Even though it is a little thicker, deerskin remains a mid-season jacket: keep a coat for the coldest days.
For a full day of rain, I also suggest choosing another garment. This advice applies to both our leathers: save your jacket for conditions in which you will wear it comfortably and keep it in good condition.
What to expect after ten years
The lambskin and deerskin we select are chosen to remain beautiful pieces over the years. With appropriate use and proper storage, the aim is to keep their look and suppleness for a long time.
Leather evolves as you wear it: creases, light and care change its appearance season after season. What I aim for after ten years is a well-kept jacket that carries the marks of your life with elegance.
For storage and care, see our leather jacket care guide. Before applying a product to a particular hide, ask our advice: we will check with you that it suits the finish.
Choose the leather, then the jacket
Do you like smoothness, a silky touch and lightness? Start with plongé lambskin. Do you like grain, a matt finish and a leather with more presence in the hand? Try deerskin.
Our in-stock jackets, in plongé lambskin, are €990. With the customisable range, at €1,470, you choose your leather from our four families, including plongé lambskin and deerskin, and you can then customise the collar, pockets and sleeves.
To handle the leathers and compare how they feel when worn, book an appointment at the showroom. You can also order remotely.
Frequently asked questions
Is a fine leather a sign of poor quality?
A fine leather can be of excellent quality. Quality is judged on the hide chosen, its tanning and its finish. Our plongé lambskin measures around 0.7 to 0.8 mm: this fineness gives it its suppleness and lightness.
What is the difference between lambskin and deerskin leather?
In our selection, plongé lambskin is smooth, with a slight satin sheen and a very silky feel, at a thickness of around 0.7 to 0.8 mm. Deerskin is naturally grained, matt and slightly oily to the touch, at around 0.8 to 1 mm. Both remain very supple.
Can you wear a lambskin or deerskin jacket in winter?
I mainly recommend them for spring, autumn and mild days. For the deep cold of late December and January in Paris, I recommend a warmer garment.
How much does a lambskin or deerskin jacket cost at Atelier Bertrand?
Our in-stock jackets, in plongé lambskin, are €990. In the customisable version, at €1,470, you choose your leather from four families, including plongé lambskin and deerskin, and your colour from more than 120.