To move away from black, I first suggest deep browns and navy blue. I also like to suggest dark burgundies and deep greens, olive in particular: underrated shades that you can often wear with the same outfits as a black jacket. To begin with, keep neutral colours in the rest of your outfit.
The photos in this article show jackets made for our clients, with the exact name of each colour.
Why I wanted to move beyond black
In 2014, the head of a tannery told me: “Jérôme, in leather there are three colours: black, black and black.” That sentence made me want to create a brand where everyone can design their own luxury leather jacket in the colour of their choice. Atelier Bertrand was born the following year, in 2015, and our customisable range now offers more than 120 colours.
At Atelier Bertrand, the most popular colours at the moment are mocha brown, caramel and navy blue, chosen in 70% of cases. Next come colours I am very fond of, such as burgundy, olive green, forest green and greys. More rarely, some clients choose yellows or purples: they make for spectacular jackets.
Browns: Moka and Chocolat
Brown remains a classic choice for a leather jacket. In our colour chart, I think first of Moka (mocha) in plongé lambskin and Chocolat (chocolate) in deerskin: two deep shades that are easy to wear with denim, ecru, beige or navy.

The Flight Jacket in mocha brown deerskin.
An ecru knit with blue jeans makes a simple first pairing. A navy top with beige trousers works too. Start by looking at what you actually wear: if these colours are already in your wardrobe, you have several outfits ready for your future jacket.
If your top is itself brown, compare the shades in front of a mirror. You can choose a darker leather to create contrast, or try navy and olive to bring in another colour.
Navy blue to keep a dark jacket
Navy suits you if you want a change from black while keeping a dark colour. It comes in several of our leathers, for example Marine in plongé lambskin or Bleu marine in deerskin. I particularly recommend it with a white or ecru top and grey or beige trousers.

Here, a Rider Jacket in navy blue plongé lambskin with a burgundy detail.
With jeans, choose blues that stand apart enough for your taste. With navy trousers, see whether you like the tonal continuity of the outfit or prefer more contrast. The complete outfit helps you decide far better than a colour seen on its own.
The dark burgundy and greens I recommend
Dark burgundy and deep greens are among my favourite recommendations. They add a distinct colour and stay discreet as long as the shade is deep enough. For burgundy, look at Lit de vin (wine lees) in plongé lambskin or Bordeaux in deerskin; for greens, Olive and Vert forêt (forest green).

Here, a Shirt Collar leather jacket in burgundy plongé lambskin.

Here, a Trucker Jacket in dark khaki plongé lambskin.
I recommend burgundy with a grey knit, raw denim jeans or navy trousers. For olive green, start with ecru, beige and denim. A deep green also pairs well with a grey top and navy trousers.
The shade matters more than the name of the colour. A dark burgundy stays discreet, a bright red draws the eye; a muted olive blends into the outfit, a vivid green takes centre stage. If you prefer discretion, start with these deep shades.
Simple outfits to try
| Jacket | Top | Trousers |
|---|---|---|
| Moka or Chocolat | Ecru knit | Blue jeans |
| Marine | Ecru T-shirt | Beige trousers |
| Lit de vin or Bordeaux | Grey knit | Raw denim jeans |
| Olive | Ecru T-shirt | Blue jeans |
| Vert forêt | Grey top | Navy trousers |
Consider the feel and finish too
The leather itself is part of the choice. In our selection, plongé lambskin is smooth with a slight satin sheen; deerskin is grained and matt. If you are torn between these two finishes, our lambskin and deerskin comparison will help you choose.
Always look at the colour in the leather you have in mind. A real sample remains the best reference: light, screens and the grain of the leather all change how a colour is perceived.
The options are spread across our four leather families. At Atelier Bertrand, each leather has its own colour chart within the more than 120 colours: we show you the selection that matches your project.
Start from your own clothes
My advice in the showroom is to start from your habits. Take a top and trousers you already enjoy wearing, then compare two or three jacket colours. You will more easily see the one you will want to reach for again.
To begin with, ecru and denim, grey and navy, or beige and blue make good foundations. Two neutral colours in the outfit are enough to enjoy a burgundy or olive jacket.
Colour is also chosen alongside the silhouette of the garment. The collar, pockets and cuffs can be adapted: discover what you can customise on your jacket.
See the shades before you decide
You can start by browsing our customisable jacket designs, then select the colours you would like to compare. The choice of more than 120 colours is reserved for our customisable range, at €1,470.
To see the leathers in person, book an appointment at the showroom in Paris. If you can, come wearing an outfit representative of your wardrobe: it will be our starting point for choosing your alternative to black. You can also order remotely.
Frequently asked questions
What colour leather jacket should I choose for a change from black?
I first suggest deep browns and navy blue, then dark burgundy and deep greens such as olive. These shades can be worn with the same clothes as a black jacket.
What should I wear with a burgundy leather jacket?
A grey knit, raw denim jeans or navy trousers. Choose a dark shade, such as Lit de vin in plongé lambskin or Bordeaux in deerskin, for a colour that is present yet discreet.
Can you wear a brown leather jacket with jeans?
Yes. An ecru knit and blue jeans make one of the simplest pairings with a Moka or Chocolat jacket.
How many colours does Atelier Bertrand offer?
More than 120 colours, spread across our four leather families: plongé lambskin, deerskin, suede lambskin and calf suede. This choice is reserved for the customisable range, at €1,470.