In short: the ribbed knit collar is the softest and most relaxed, true to the original bomber. The leather stand-up collar, straight and clean, structures the silhouette and keeps out the wind. The shirt collar, worn open, gives a dressier look. The two-button collar is the signature of the Harrington. For a short neck, favour a low or open collar; for a long neck, the stand-up collar is the most flattering.
The collar is the detail that most changes the look of a leather bomber. On our customisable models, it is also one of the choices you make when ordering. Here is how to find your way.
The ribbed knit collar: the original bomber
This is the collar of the MA-1, the flight jacket that gave the bomber its shape: a band of ribbed knit, matching the waistband and cuffs. It follows the neck without gripping it, folds down easily and gives the jacket a sporty, relaxed look. The knit also softens the appearance of the leather.
The original bomber collar, in 100% cotton ribbed knit.
Wear it with a T-shirt, a crew-neck jumper or a sweatshirt. In our range, the Teddy N2 Jacket has this ribbed knit collar, with welt pockets and an Italian brass zip.
The stand-up collar: clean and structured
The stand-up collar replaces the knit with a straight band of leather that rises up the neck. Closed, it keeps out the wind; open, it draws a clean neckline, free of lapels or a turn-down collar. It is the most modern and graphic version of the bomber.
A 5 cm high collar for a refined look, in 100% leather.
It particularly suits long or slim necks, which it frames with structure. Wear it with a T-shirt, a shirt without a tie or a fine crew-neck knit. Avoid layering it over a roll neck, which makes the neckline look heavy. For more outfit ideas, see how to wear a leather bomber after 40.
Our stand-up collar bombers
- The customisable Stand-up Collar Bomber: straight leather collar, French cotton ribbed knit at the waist and cuffs, and a choice of zipped, flap or patch pockets. Made in Paris, from €1,470.
- The in-stock Stand-up Collar Bomber: in black plongé lambskin, at €990, shipped within 48 hours.
For other short-collar cuts, see also our round collar and stand-up collar leather jackets.
The shirt collar: the dressy version
The shirt collar comes from the A-2, the jacket worn by American pilots in the 1930s. Turned down, with points, it is worn open and frames the face like a shirt. It is the most elegant collar for a short jacket: it pairs with a shirt, a roll neck or a chunky knit.
A shirt collar, here on our Flight Jacket.
It suits short necks well, since it opens up the neckline. Our Flight Jacket combines it with French cotton ribbed knit at the waist and cuffs. Find our other styles in the shirt collar leather jackets collection.
The two-button collar: the Harrington touch
This small straight collar, fastened with two buttons, is the signature of the Harrington. Open, it folds over slightly; closed, it protects the neck. On our Harrington Jacket, it fastens with press studs or horn buttons. To learn all about this style, read our guide to the Harrington jacket. To understand what sets it apart from the bomber, the teddy and the aviator jacket, read our guide bomber, aviator, teddy, Harrington: the differences.
The Harrington collar is the tab above the zip with its two buttons.
Which collar for your build?
| Your profile | Recommended collar | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Long or slim neck | Stand-up collar | It structures the neckline |
| Short neck | Shirt collar or ribbed knit | They open up the neck |
| Relaxed look | Ribbed knit | The softest |
| Dressier look | Shirt collar or two-button collar | They pair well with a shirt |
| Windy days | Stand-up collar | It closes high on the neck |
The collar is chosen when you order
On our customisable jackets, the collar is one of the options, along with the pockets, the cuffs, the leather and the colour, chosen from more than 120. Depending on the model, we can consider a stand-up collar, an officer collar, a shirt collar or a Harrington collar; our customisation guide presents every possibility, and our article which leather to choose for a bomber helps you choose the material. At our showroom in Passage Verdeau, you can try on the different collars before you decide.
The different collars, on different styles of bomber.
Frequently asked questions
What collar does a classic bomber have?
The original bomber, the MA-1, has a ribbed knit collar, matching the waistband and cuffs. The leather stand-up collar is a more structured version of it.
Does a stand-up collar suit a short neck?
It makes the neck look shorter. For a short neck, a shirt collar worn open or a ribbed knit collar is more flattering.
Can I wear a stand-up collar bomber with a shirt?
Yes, with a shirt worn open at the collar, without a tie. The stand-up collar then frames the shirt collar.
Can I choose the collar of my bomber when ordering?
On our customisable models, the collar is one of the options, depending on the model chosen. We check with you what suits the cut.