In short: for a bomber worn every day, I recommend plongé lambskin, soft and light, which falls beautifully over the ribbed knit. Deerskin suits you if you like a visible grain and a leather with more substance in the hand. Suede lambskin and calf suede give a bomber a velvety touch, ideal for brighter colours. As for colour, black remains the safe choice; moka, navy and olive are my favourite alternatives.
The leather changes the look of a leather bomber as much as its cut or its collar. On our customisable models, you choose it from four families, sourced from the same tanneries as the great luxury houses. Here is how each one behaves on a short jacket.
What the leather changes on a bomber
The bomber is a short jacket, gathered at the waist and cuffs by ribbed knit. The leather creases and blouses slightly above these knitted bands: that movement is what gives it its character. A supple leather forms soft, natural folds; a denser leather holds a crisper shape and gives structure to the collar and shoulders.
Weight matters too. A lambskin jacket weighs around 1 kg, a deerskin jacket around 1.5 kg. On a piece you keep on all day, you feel the difference.
Plongé lambskin: the softest bomber
In the showroom, I often describe our plongé lambskin as butter. Smooth, with a light satin sheen and a thickness of around 0.7 to 0.8 mm, it wears like a second skin. On a bomber, it blouses very softly above the ribbed knit and follows every movement.
Shown here: a bomber in navy lambskin.
This is the leather I recommend for a first leather bomber, or for a jacket worn every day, in town as well as at the weekend. It takes 5 to 6 skins to make a jacket in size 50.
Our two in-stock bombers, the black plongé lambskin Bomber and the Stand-up Collar Bomber, are made in this black lambskin, at €990. The Fitted Bomber is shown in the same leather, in a customisable version.
Deerskin: grain and character
The deerskin we select has a natural grain, a matt finish and a slightly waxy feel. A little thicker than lambskin, at around 0.8 to 1 mm, it remains very supple and, in my view, offers the best balance of durability and suppleness for a garment.
The Stand-up Collar Bomber made in navy blue deerskin.
On a bomber, its grain adds texture and depth. It suits those who like to feel the leather in their hands and want a jacket with a strong character. Our Stand-up Collar Bomber is shown in navy blue deerskin, a good example of this finish.
Suede lambskin and calf suede: the velvety version
Velours leathers, which most people simply call suede, have a matt, downy surface that is soft to the hand. Suede lambskin is the lightest and most supple; calf suede is denser and gives more structure to the collar and shoulders.
Two customised teddy jackets, one with a button fastening, the other with a zip. Made in suede lambskin.
They lend themselves particularly well to bright colours: beige, spice tones, light brown, vert d'eau. On a short jacket, they give a softer, more summery look than smooth leathers. Our Teddy N2 Jacket is shown in beige calf suede and our Harrington Jacket in navy suede lambskin; our guide to the Harrington jacket explains why suede leathers suit it so well.
The four leathers compared
| Leather | Appearance | Feel | On a bomber |
|---|---|---|---|
| Plongé lambskin | Smooth, light satin sheen | Very silky | Soft and light, for every day |
| Deerskin | Grained, matt | Slightly waxy | Texture and presence |
| Suede lambskin | Matt, downy | Soft and velvety | Light, for bright colours |
| Calf suede | Matt, denser | Velvety | A more structured collar and shoulders |
To explore the two smooth leathers further, read our comparison lambskin or deerskin. Each family is described in detail on our Our Leathers page.
Which colour for a leather bomber?
Black remains the colour every wardrobe needs: it goes with everything and dresses up the bomber. Among our more than 120 colours, those our clients choose most often are moka, navy and cognac. For a brown bomber, moka is the easiest to wear; for a beige bomber, I recommend a suede leather, which makes light tones softer.
I also have a soft spot for two shades that are still underrated: olive, a nod to the green of military flight jackets, and bordeaux, deep and easy to wear. In suede, be bold with brighter tones. Our guide which leather jacket colour to choose beyond black suggests practical pairings.
A leather bomber for winter?
I recommend wearing these jackets in spring, in autumn and on mild days. In early winter, a chunky knit jumper under the bomber is often enough. For the deep cold of late December and January, keep to a coat. Suede leathers need a little more attention in the rain; our care guide sets out the right steps for each leather.
Choosing your leather at the showroom
The simplest way to decide is still to touch the skins. At our showroom in Passage Verdeau, you can compare the four families and the colour chart on our models. You can also order remotely; our customisation guide presents every option. For the choice of collar, see which collar to choose for a leather bomber, and for outfit ideas, how to wear a leather bomber after 40. If you are still undecided about the style, our guide bomber, aviator, teddy, Harrington: the differences will help.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best leather for a bomber?
For a bomber worn every day, plongé lambskin, soft and light. For more grain and character, deerskin. For a velvety touch and bright colours, suede lambskin or calf suede.
Is a lambskin bomber durable?
Yes. A fine leather can be of the highest quality: its durability depends on the skin chosen, its tanning and its finish. Our plongé lambskin, at around 0.7 to 0.8 mm, is chosen to last with daily wear and the right care.
Which colour should I choose for a first leather bomber?
Black, the most versatile. If you already own one, moka and navy are the easiest to pair.
How much does a leather bomber cost at Atelier Bertrand?
Our in-stock bombers, in black plongé lambskin, are €990. The customisable models, in the leather and colour of your choice, start from €1,470.