In short: the bomber is a short jacket, gathered at the waist and cuffs by ribbed knit bands. The aviator jacket is longer and warmer, with a large shearling collar or a shirt collar. The teddy comes from American universities and often fastens with press studs. The Harrington is a light jacket of English origin, recognisable by its small two-button collar. All four share a short cut; the collar, the length and the overall look are what set them apart.
All four styles feature in our collection of men's leather bomber jackets and among our aviator jackets, customisable and made in Paris. Here is how to tell them apart, and which one to choose for the way you dress.
The differences at a glance
| Style | Origin | Collar | Cut | Look |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bomber | US military aviation, 1950s | Ribbed knit or stand-up collar | Short, ribbed knit at the waist and cuffs | Urban, relaxed |
| Aviator | Pilots of the 1930s and 1940s | Shearling collar or shirt collar | Longer, broad shoulders | Warm, bold |
| Teddy | American universities | Ribbed knit | Short, press-stud fastening | Sporty, retro |
| Harrington | England, 1937 | Small two-button collar | Short and light | Elegant, transitional |
The bomber: from the MA-1 to the leather jacket
The bomber takes its name from bomber crews. Its current shape comes from the MA-1, the flight jacket adopted by the US Air Force in the 1950s: short, in nylon, with a ribbed knit collar, waistband and cuffs that hold in the warmth. Fashion then took it up in every material. Leather gives it structure and a patina that grows more beautiful over the years.
You can spot it by three details: it stops at the waist, its ribbed knit gathers the hem and cuffs, and its shoulders stay soft. It is the easiest of the four to wear, over a shirt, a fine jumper or a T-shirt, in town as well as at the weekend.
Our leather bombers
- The Bomber Jacket: two flap pockets, a zipped pocket on the left sleeve and an action pleat in the back for ease of movement.
- The Stand-up Collar Bomber: a straight leather collar, cotton ribbed knit at the waist and cuffs, and a choice of zipped, flap or patch pockets.
- The Fitted Bomber: a tailored cut that sits closer to the body.
They are customisable and made in Paris in 4 to 6 weeks, from €1,470. For a bomber available straight away, the black plongé lambskin Bomber and the in-stock Stand-up Collar Bomber are €990, shipped within 48 hours.
The aviator jacket: the flight jacket of the 1930s
The aviator jacket descends from the pilots' jackets of the interwar years. Two models set its codes. The A-2, adopted in 1931 by the US Army Air Corps, is in leather, with a shirt collar and ribbed knit. The B-3, designed for bomber crews flying at high altitude, is in sheepskin, with a large shearling collar.
Shown here: our Aviator Jacket in black plongé lambskin, available in stock at €990.
In France, "blouson aviateur" mainly refers to this second silhouette: longer than the bomber, with broad shoulders and an imposing collar. It is the warmest of the four: its shearling collar protects the neck on cool days.
Our aviator jackets
- The Aviator Jacket: two flap pockets, with a shearling collar included.
- The Flight Jacket: in the spirit of the A-2, with a shirt collar, French cotton ribbed knit at the waist and cuffs, and two welt pockets.
Find them in our collection of leather aviator jackets.
The teddy or varsity jacket: a legacy of American universities
The teddy, also called the varsity jacket, comes from American campuses, where student athletes were given a jacket in their university's colours. The classic version pairs a wool body with leather sleeves, a ribbed knit collar, waistband and cuffs, and a press-stud fastening.
Shown here: our Teddy N2 leather jacket, made in beige calf suede.
It has the length of a bomber, with a sportier, more retro look. Made entirely in leather, it becomes more understated, especially in a single colour or with one simple contrasting panel.
Our teddy jackets
- The Teddy Jacket: press-stud fastening and a lambskin panel, which can contrast with the body of the jacket.
- The Teddy N2 Jacket: rib-knit collar, welt pockets and an Italian brass zip, with the option of a press-stud fastening.
The Harrington: the light English jacket
The Harrington was born in 1937 in Manchester, under the name G9. It owes its nickname to Rodney Harrington, a character in the series Peyton Place who wore it in the 1960s. Its codes: a small two-button collar, a zip fastening, ribbed knit at the waist and cuffs, and a light cut designed for the transitional seasons.
Shown here: our Harrington leather jacket, made in navy suede lambskin.
It is the dressiest of the four. It pairs easily with a shirt and cotton trousers. Its history, its codes and outfit ideas are covered in detail in our guide to the Harrington jacket.
Our leather Harrington
The Harrington Jacket keeps the two-button collar, with press studs or horn buttons, along with French cotton ribbed knit, welt pockets and an Italian brass zip.
Which one to choose for the way you live?
- For every day, in town: the bomber, the most versatile.
- For the coolest days: the aviator jacket with its shearling collar.
- For a dressier look: the Harrington, or the Flight with its shirt collar.
- For a sporty, retro touch: the teddy.
The collar changes the look of a short jacket considerably. If you are torn between a stand-up collar bomber and a softer collar, our guide which collar to choose for a leather bomber covers each option. For outfit ideas, read how to wear a leather bomber after 40 as well.
Which leather for these jackets?
All four styles can be made in our four families of leather, sourced from the same tanneries as the great luxury houses:
- plongé lambskin, soft and light, ideal for a bomber worn every day;
- deerskin, with a natural grain and great durability;
- suede lambskin and calf suede, velvety to the touch, which suit the teddy and the Harrington particularly well.
Our guide which leather to choose for a bomber explains how each one looks on a short jacket. To compare the two smooth leathers, read our article lambskin or deerskin, and find full details of the skins on our Our Leathers page. More than 120 colours are available; our customisation guide presents the other options.
Frequently asked questions
What is the difference between a bomber and an aviator jacket?
The bomber is short and gathered at the waist by ribbed knit. The aviator jacket is longer, with broader shoulders and an imposing collar, often in shearling. It is also warmer.
Is a teddy a bomber?
They share the same length and the same ribbed knit. The teddy comes from American universities and traditionally fastens with press studs; the bomber comes from military aviation and fastens with a zip.
Is the Harrington a bomber?
It is a short jacket from the same family, recognisable by its small two-button collar. Lighter, it is best suited to the transitional seasons.
How much does a leather bomber cost at Atelier Bertrand?
Our in-stock bombers are €990. The customisable models, made in Paris in the leather and colour of your choice, start from €1,470.
Can I try them on before ordering?
Yes, at our showroom in Passage Verdeau, Paris 9e, Monday to Saturday from 10.30am to 7pm, by appointment.